F-15 Photos

 A few drill weekends ago I had the opportunity to bring my Mustang to the base and get some pictures taken in front of one of our F-15s. 

The airport you see in the background is Portland International which is just across from our base. It’s not every day you get drive your own car into an active international airport, so it was a pretty cool experience. 

MSD Distributor and 6AL Box

One of the issues I've wanted to resolve on my Mustang was the fact that it had a hard time starting once it had been driven for a little bit (i.e. engine was hot). The distributor in the car was nothing to write home about so I had a feeling that it was the reason for my starting woes. I decided to buy the MSD-8479 with vacuum advance from Summit View Racing after a very disappointing experience with CJ Pony Parts. I also installed the 6AL box (MSD 6245) and the Blaster II coil (MSD 8202) to back it up. 

I have mostly installed everything, but certainly haven't fine-tuned it, properly trimmed the wires, or wrapped the wires. My dad helped me get it dropped in while he was up here visiting me, and then he helped me figure out that we were 180 degrees off when we dropped it in over the phone (after he left). Wiring it up was pretty straight forward and I chose to mount it on the driver's side fender apron. I thought it would have been cool to mount it inside the glove box since it has the Rev Limiter, but the installation manual specifically advises against it :)

My tach doesn't hook up to the new box so I'll need to look for one that is compatible with my new ignition setup. I'd also like to replace my radiator overflow with one offered by Scott Drake, but that is a project for another day.

Once everything was hooked up and operating properly my wife and I decided to take the car for a spin around town. It ran good enough although I will need to spend some time tuning the air/fuel mix and the timing to get it dialed in. It ran good enough to spin the tires going into second gear so that is good enough for now.

Flaming River Steering Box

When I rebuilt the Mustang starting back in 2009 I changed out almost all of the steering components--the one exception was the steering box. The cost of a new aftermarket steering box was more than I had to spend and I figured that the car drove good enough so I choose to put it off. After saving some money from birthdays, father's days, and Christmases I decided to spend it on a new steering box from Flaming River.

I did some searching on various Mustang threads (e.g. vintage-mustang.com) to find out how to go about changing the steering box while the engine and interior are installed and came up with a variety of methods. What I determined was that each mustang is unique in the way it is setup; engine type, exhaust, transmission (e.g. manual, automatic), transmission linkage setup, valve covers, steering, brake master cylinder, etc., etc. With that being the case, the way the steering box will come out will vary with what is in the way. Some people bring it out through the top of the engine compartment while others take it out through the bottom of the engine compartment. This is how my Mustang is setup:

• Engine
• 302 block
• 289 heads
• Patriot mid-length headers
• Fairly stock-sized valve covers
• Transmission
• World Class T-5 (1988 5.0 Mustang)
• 1995 Mustang Clutch Cable--Long (Mustang Steve quadrant)
• Brakes
• CSRP Front Disk with power booster
• Steering
• Stock power steering

Ultimately I was able to finagle the steering box out of the top of the engine compartment with the removal of some parts and loosening of others. These were roughly the steps I took:

1. Removed driver's seat (4 bolts under car)
• This is to prevent damage to the seat by the steering shaft during removal
2. Removed steering wheel (1 nut, use puller if wheel is tightened down)
3. Removed steering column (housing)
• Unplugged wiring harnesses (2)
• Removed bracket (2 bolts under dash)
• Remove bracket at base of column at firewall if installed
• Column pulls straight out (leaving steel shaft behind)
4. Removed driver's side valve cover
5. Removed driver's side header (engine and collector bolts)
• I ultimately needed new gaskets for the collector and the block
6. Unplugged rear spark plug wires
7. Removed rear spark plugs
8. Removed the mounting bolts the master cylinder 
• I didn't remove the master cylinder--just the two bolts holding it to the firewall
9. Removed nut/washer on P/S slave cylinder and collapse it
• This was only necessary to get access to the bolt on the pitman arm for removal
10. Remove pitman arm
• Use pitman arm puller (rent for free at local parts store)
11. Unbolt steering box (3 bolts on frame from driver's side wheel well)

From this point it will be a matter maneuvering the steering box around to get it out of the car. It helps if you have someone to assist, but it is doable alone. If I remember correctly I rotated the steering box 180 degrees so the portion with the 3-bolt holes was pointed towards the top of the engine compartment. It was a tight fit getting it out, but it was absolutely possible to get it out.

Once it was out, I cleaned up the ledge where the original one sat before installing the new one. When I turned the shaft on the original one it felt rough. When I pulled the new one out of the box and turned the shaft it was more firm, but felt smooth. It was obvious that the old one had been well-used. Installing the new box can be accomplished by following the above steps in reverse. It went in really easily once I had become familiar with the process of taking it out. It bolted right up to the frame and away I went. Make sure you follow the directions provided from Flaming River by ensuring the shaft is centered before you install the pitman arm--they marked the gear and steering box with a yellow paint pen too.

Modified Brake Light Switch for CSRP Kit

I upgraded the front drum brakes on my 1966 Mustang to power-assisted disk brakes using a kit from CSRP a couple of years ago. Since installing that kit I've had issues with the tail lights illuminating when I press on the brake pedal. I did some forum searching online and found that other people have also experienced the same issue after installing the kit from CSRP. User "Woodchuck" from vintage-mustang.com posted a useful picture to explain how the brake light switch is triggered when pressing on the brake pedal. I have modified that diageam and included it below:

The above diagram shows the pedal as if you were looking at it as it sits in the car from the driver's side. It's as if you're looking at the side of the car from the driver's side door with the side of the car cut away. The numbers below don't correlate to diagram above--they are order of operations:

1. The pedal and switch are pressed by the driver they move towards the firewall. 
2. The "slack" or "play" that exists where the pedal stub (diagram part #2), and the push rod meet (diagram part #1) is shifted (yellow shaded area)
3. The push rod moves a few millimeters into the switch.
4. The spring is depressed 
5. The plunger inside the spring is now pushing against the (hot) metal blade which makes contact with the brake light side of the switch (diagram part #5)
6. The circuit is now closed and power travels to the brake lights

The Problem

The flat side of the master cylinder push-rod (part #1) was not quite thick enough to make enough contact with the switch to push the hot side of the switch into the brake light side of the switch. There could have been different ways to remedy this issue.

1. Drill out the hole in the push rod to create more slack or play so that it traveled further when the pedal was pressed.
2. Add some weld to the flat part of the push rod so that when it started moving into the switch it could make enough contact to trigger the brake lights.
3. Add a shim between the push rod and the switch so that the push rod could make enough contact to trigger the brake lights (similar to #2)

The Solution

For me it seemed easiest to try solution #3 (adding a shim between the push rod and switch). I also had to cut off about 1 coil from the spring, but I had tried that first anyways before getting to the shim solution. If I had used a thinner shim I probably wouldn't have needed to cut off a coil from the spring.

Shim Front View

Shim Side View

Shim Installed on Switch

The shim was crafted out of an aluminum "L" bracket that I had sitting on a shelf in my garage. I just used a hacksaw to cut it to the length and width that I needed. I left enough length to bend both ends to wrap around the switch to ensure it didn't fall off. If I had a thinner metal or even a grinder to make the metal thinner I could have gotten by without needing to shorten the spring. I installed the switch back on the brake pedal/push rod although I don't have the plastic washers that go on either side of the switch.

Now the circuit is closed as I lightly press the brake pedal. This is important since it takes very little pedal travel for the car to stop now that I've got the power booster installed.

I took the liberty to buy the "DISC BRAKE" rubber pedal to replace my standard brake pedal since I expected to spend money on a new brake light switch anyways.

New Alternator Belt

I finally found an alternator belt that works with the 3G alternator that I installed. The belt that I originally installed sheared off after only 2,000 miles because it wasn't a great fit. The employee at AutoZone near my house was kind enough to look through his inventory to find a belt that would be a better fit based on length/width rather than by year/make/model.

Ultimately I needed a 40" belt with a 38 degree angle that is 0.41" wide (10.414mm). It was part #15400 and was only $4.99.

I don't get to drive the car much these days, but in the time that I have driven it I haven't had any belt-related issues. The belt seats nicely in the pulleys.

Alternator Not Charging Battery

I recently joined the Air National Guard which means that I have the opportunity to drive the Mustang to UTA one weekend a month. The base is only about 25 minutes from my house so it makes for a decent drive. This month was odd in the sense that UTA was Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. I was driving home on Saturday evening when I noticed that my battery wasn't charging. The Volt meter was reading just under 12 volts. I didn't have the time to troubleshoot on Saturday night, and since I had to leave the house early the next morning I took my wife's car. I popped the hood a few days later and started checking the various connection points between the alternator and the batter. I checked the cable on the back of the alternator, the fuse, the connection on the starter solenoid, and then the connection on the battery. I noticed that the cable was loose so I took a closer look and noticed that the connector was broken.

I went and bought a new cable from the local parts store, but before I got the chance to hook it up I noticed that the alternator belt was gone. That is most likely the cause of the non-charging battery.

I haven't taken the time to go back and buy a new belt, or hook up the new battery cable since I don't need the car running. I'll probably try to fix it before I head out of town.

Officially a Washington Resident

After years of talking about moving out of California, I was finally able to make the move with my family. Our second son is on the way in September and we were able to get out of that state in late June. It was definitely a long time coming and we've been very happy where we are in southern WA. The thing that makes the move official isn't buying property here, it's getting my original WA state license plates registered on the Mustang:

Now I won't feel like an outsider with my California plates anymore. As an additional bonus, I have permanent registration on the Mustang since I'm using an original license plate and I'll never have to pay registration fees again! 

On another note about license plates, I received a notice from the CA DMV in the mail right after I moved to notify me that my new "classic" plates that I ordered over a year ago will be ready to pick up in 8-12 weeks. Thanks CA DMV...you're so efficient.