Upgraded Fuse Panel

My dad cut out a fuse panel from an unknown vehicle and I wired it into my Mustang in order to do away with the older style fuse box. 

1965-1966 Mustang Stock Fuse Panel

As you can see from the picture above, the metal connections can become corroded over time which will prevent a good connection on both ends of the fuse. I was running into this problem with the instrument light fuse and was quite done. Here is a picture of the back of the fuse block as provided by Veronica of the blog mentioned in the paragraph below.

1965-1966 Mustang Fuse Panel (back)

 

If you haven't noticed the link at the bottom of my page for a blog titled "The Proper Care and Feeding of Ponies" you need to check it out. Veronica posts a lot of very valuable information that will help you with most any project you have regarding your early model Mustang. For example, I used her post about the fuse block to better understand which wires did what. You can read the post HERE.

Before I cut any wires I made sure to study the existing fuse block as well as the newer model fuse block to map out where I wanted to put each wire. The newer fuse block was made up of multiple heavier (10-8 gauge) wires that fed 2, 3 or 4 smaller wires. It was like having multiple fuse blocks built into one So far I've only used five of the twenty positions, but its good to know that I have room to expand should I need/want to. I put a piece of blue painters tape on each wire near the fuse block and used a black marker to write what the wire was for and the color scheme of the original wire. I tried to keep the wire colors similar, but I only had so many wire colors (red, black, white, green). Here is the finished product installed on the firewall behind the fresh air vent between the driver's kick panel and the parking brake:

Upgraded Fuse Panel1 on 966 Mustang Firewall

Like I mentioned, there were twenty spots to run wires, but I only used five and this is where I used them:

1. Constant Hot- Cigarette Lighter/Emergency Flashers
2. Constant Hot- Dome Light (interior light since there is no dome light)
3.  Open
4.  Open
5.  Open
6.  Open
7. Instrument lights (Triggered by power from the headlight switch)
8.  Open
9.  Open
10.  Open
11.  Open
12.  Open
13.  Open
14.  Open
15.  Open
16.  Open
17.  Open
18. Switched Hot- Heater Box
19. Switched Hot- Accessories
20.  Open

I also tried to snap a picture of the keyed-hot fuse panel that I wired up and put under the dash by the center console. I wrote a post about it's install last week, but to refresh your memory, I used a five blade standard automotive relay which pulled power from the positive side of the starter solenoid and was triggered by the ignition switch to feed multiple other items. So far I have the tachometer, volt gauge, electronic choke, electric fan override, and one other thing running off of it.

Keyed Hot Fuse Panel '66 Mustang

My dad was kind enough to make a pit stop on his way home from work and pick up a bolt that would work as a stud in the back of the corral on the grill. He was able to cut it to fit and then installed the horse so it looked a little more like a Mustang.

Driving the Mustang

Today was a busy day with Lauren working and me having a "teachers meeting" after church and then having the 5th/6th grade movie watching party. I had a little time to swing by my parents house before Lauren got off of work which allowed me to get under the car and set the toe a little better. If you remember, after I lowered the front end, the toe turned outward instead of staying inward so I had to adjust the tie rods outward allowing the front of the tires to move inwards. I turned the driver's side rod two full revolutions and I only turned the passenger side one full revolution. after a drive around the neighborhood, it looks like the toe is in a little too much now.apparently its very sensitive.

I did have my older brother take a video with my phone so that you can actually see what it's like to ride inside the nearly complete Mustang:

Another thing I checked today was the accuracy of the speedometer cable. The city put up one of those speed sensing signs  to make you aware how fast your driving and I know that it is accurate since I always look at my speedometer in my daily driver to see if it's right. Low and behold, it said that I was going 65 in a 45 zone and my Mustang speedometer said that I was driving 65! Perfect!

Engine Running Again

Lauren had to work this St. Patrick's Day so I went to my parents house to work alongside my dad and get the motor put back together on the Mustang and get it running. We had to make a couple of trips to Auto Zone in order to get the correct drive belts. Both the alternator and power steering belts were a little too long causing them to squeal although they were as tight as they could go. I don't know it's application, but the alternator belt is a Duralast V-Belt #15390 part #303842 and was $8.99. The power steering belt is a Duralast V-Belt #15490 part #304154 and was $8.99. I discovered that the vacuum advance was hooked up to a dead port on the carburetor. In other words, there was no vacuum off of the carburetor so the hose to the distributor was doing us no good. Once we hooked it up to the other port on the front of the carburetor it bumped up the idle a good 500-600rpm. We were then able to adjust it back down. 

I pulled a lot of the wires under the hood that were on running off of the starter solenoid keyed power source and hooked them up to the new fuse box that I ran under the dash. I ended up moving the wire for the electric fan relay, and volt gauge to the fuse box under the dash. I completely disconnected the amp gauge in the dash because it always reads right in the middle anyways.

While I had the car up in the air I changed the speedometer cable and wrapped the exhaust pipe on the driver's side since it is hear the clutch cable, speedometer cable, fuel line and parking brake. I also bolted up the exhaust pipes to the headers.

I hooked up the tachometer to the coil wire since I don't have an MSD ignition box to hook it up to. The switched power is run off of the extra fuse box. The tach seems to run smoothly and appears to read accurately. Once it's warmed up it has been idling around 500-600rpm. 

Both heads were checked and there were no leaks in either. We reinstalled them with new gaskets and all appears to be normal. I think we can chalk up the pressure problem to having a bad head gasket.  There was no sign of bubbles in the overflow tank. My dad is going to adjust the valves tomorrow and I'm going to adjust the toe since both tires are currently pointed outware instead of 1/8" inward.

Motor Troubles Continued and Tach Installed

I swung by the Electronics Warehouse in Riverside to pick up a relay socket, rely, fuse panel, and wire in order to install the keyed hot fuse panel to run the additional items that needed to be run. The fuse panel holds six fuses and it is powered by a standard 5-prong 40 amp relay that is powered by an 8 gauge red wire that comes directly off of the positive battery side.

Right now I have three things running off of the new fuse panel:

1. Electric choke on the Edelbrock 1406 carburetor
2. Override switch for the electric fans
3. Tachometer

I labeled each of the wires so that I know which one goes to which item. I figured that I would forget otherwise since they're all red. The keyed power source for the relay is the ignition switch off of the fuse block. I'll probably move over the volt gauges to the switched wire box too the next time I'm over. The less I have on the solenoid the better.

This is the schematic that I used to know where I was supposed to wire everything:

My dad took the passenger side head by the shop today and they told him that everything checked out okay--in other words there were no cracks or leaks. He pulled off the other head and will take it down tomorrow to have them check it out. There was one discolored spot on one of the heads that looked like it could have been caused by a water leak. It is the far right cylinder in the below picture. The top portion inside the gasket is a little redish which could have been caused by water. If there is a leak there, that would explain the pressure building up in the cooling system.

Here is a picture of the other side of the motor torn down:

While my dad was pulling off the other head, I had already gotten started on running the wiring for the additional keyed hot fuse panel in order to install the new Equus 8068 tach that I bought to match the other aftermarket gauges under the dash. It took a little while to get all of the wires properly run, but it was done right. I mounted the relay and the fuse block to the firewall under the dash in a spot that was still easily accessible to change fuses if necessary.

I had to use a large clamp to mount the tach to the steering column, but I cut a thin piece of rubber to fit underneath the clamp to act as a cushion between the clamp and the column. It looks quite nice with the other gauges (although I still need to wrap the wires to keep it cleaner looking.

I made sure to install the green bulb covers on the tach before I took it over to my parents house so that it matches the dash lights and the additional lights under the dash. Here is a picture taken with my phone so it's harder to capture the brightness of the gauges, but you get the general idea.

Motor Troubles

It appears that I have pressure in my cooling system because the overflow tank is filling up so much that it is dumping out onto the street while I drive which is draining most of the coolant in the radiator while I drive. The overflow tank looks like it's boiling (even when the motor is off), but the water temp in the overflow tank is only around 130 degrees (according to the laser temp reader). My dad thinks that it could possible be a crack in one of the heads. We didn't have them pressure checked while they were off and instead only had them planed.  Before I pulled apart the motor tonight, I took a video of the exhaust system which I think sounds perfect.

We started by pulling each spark plug out to see if there was any water in any of the cylinders. We didn't see any water. Next we pulled the distributor and then all hoses and other things in the way of pulling off the intake manifold. We checked the seals to see if there was any sign of a breech between the water port and the exhaust port. 

We then looked at the heads to see if there were any tell tale signs of a leak. We didn't see anything that would make us suspect that anything was amiss.

 

The last thing we did after dropping off the passenger side header was pull the head to take it down to the machine shop and have it pressure tested for cracks. These heads were rebuilt about 12 years ago and had minimal miles put on them and then were re-sealed and planed about a year ago so they should be good, but we've got to figure out what the problem is and this seems to be a good place to start.

 

If the passenger side head checks out, we'll pull the driver side head to have it pressure tested. If that comes out good then I'm not sure what comes next...the block???

First Drive to Work

I decided to drive the Mustang to work today (35 miles each way in Southern California) and it was pretty nice. The only downside was that I don't have a worked speedometer in the car nor do I have the tachometer hooked up. I work 5am-2pm so I was on the road while it was dark. I'm looking forward to the drive home since it will be daylight and I'll get to see other people's reactions to the car.

The oil under the car isn't from the Mustang. It doesn't appear to have any serious oil leaks that would cause that kind of stainage.

Since cutting the front springs to help the front end settle down, it looks like the camber has begun to go negative (which is a good thing):

Before I had positive camber which isn't desirable. Not that it has gone negative, I can have my buddy set it properly. I'm told that it should be between -2 to -3 degrees. It looks like the tires have moved outwards whereas they had been aligned to have toe in. I guess that's what happens when you lower the suspension of a car. I should be able to have the car realigned tomorrow.

Exhaust Install

I had my wife follow me to SoCal Mufflers in Riverside today so that I could drop off the 'Stang and have the exhaust system installed. The owner of the shop was the one installing the exhaust and he told me that it would only take two hours to install which I thought was great. Unfortunately it took a little longer than two hours to install...it took closer to five. I ended up walking back down there from my house to pick it up before they even called me. Once I arrived at the shop, I could see the owner taking a video of the exhaust while it was still on the rack. It did turn out pretty good.

1. 2.5" alumanized steel pipe
2. X-pipe 
3. Dynomax Ultraflo mufflers with 2.5" offset inlet-2.5" center outlet
4. Pipes over the axles and turned down right before the valance.

Total cost for the mufflers and to have the exhaust run= $143(mufflers) + $343(pipes) or $486 with tax.

Dynomax Ultraflo's of '66 Mustang

 '66 Mustang X-pipe

Here is a video I took this morning. Sorry about the belt squeal...its the power steering belt and I plan on getting it fixed soon.