Flaming River Steering Box

When I rebuilt the Mustang starting back in 2009 I changed out almost all of the steering components--the one exception was the steering box. The cost of a new aftermarket steering box was more than I had to spend and I figured that the car drove good enough so I choose to put it off. After saving some money from birthdays, father's days, and Christmases I decided to spend it on a new steering box from Flaming River.

I did some searching on various Mustang threads (e.g. vintage-mustang.com) to find out how to go about changing the steering box while the engine and interior are installed and came up with a variety of methods. What I determined was that each mustang is unique in the way it is setup; engine type, exhaust, transmission (e.g. manual, automatic), transmission linkage setup, valve covers, steering, brake master cylinder, etc., etc. With that being the case, the way the steering box will come out will vary with what is in the way. Some people bring it out through the top of the engine compartment while others take it out through the bottom of the engine compartment. This is how my Mustang is setup:

• Engine
• 302 block
• 289 heads
• Patriot mid-length headers
• Fairly stock-sized valve covers
• Transmission
• World Class T-5 (1988 5.0 Mustang)
• 1995 Mustang Clutch Cable--Long (Mustang Steve quadrant)
• Brakes
• CSRP Front Disk with power booster
• Steering
• Stock power steering

Ultimately I was able to finagle the steering box out of the top of the engine compartment with the removal of some parts and loosening of others. These were roughly the steps I took:

1. Removed driver's seat (4 bolts under car)
• This is to prevent damage to the seat by the steering shaft during removal
2. Removed steering wheel (1 nut, use puller if wheel is tightened down)
3. Removed steering column (housing)
• Unplugged wiring harnesses (2)
• Removed bracket (2 bolts under dash)
• Remove bracket at base of column at firewall if installed
• Column pulls straight out (leaving steel shaft behind)
4. Removed driver's side valve cover
5. Removed driver's side header (engine and collector bolts)
• I ultimately needed new gaskets for the collector and the block
6. Unplugged rear spark plug wires
7. Removed rear spark plugs
8. Removed the mounting bolts the master cylinder 
• I didn't remove the master cylinder--just the two bolts holding it to the firewall
9. Removed nut/washer on P/S slave cylinder and collapse it
• This was only necessary to get access to the bolt on the pitman arm for removal
10. Remove pitman arm
• Use pitman arm puller (rent for free at local parts store)
11. Unbolt steering box (3 bolts on frame from driver's side wheel well)

From this point it will be a matter maneuvering the steering box around to get it out of the car. It helps if you have someone to assist, but it is doable alone. If I remember correctly I rotated the steering box 180 degrees so the portion with the 3-bolt holes was pointed towards the top of the engine compartment. It was a tight fit getting it out, but it was absolutely possible to get it out.

Once it was out, I cleaned up the ledge where the original one sat before installing the new one. When I turned the shaft on the original one it felt rough. When I pulled the new one out of the box and turned the shaft it was more firm, but felt smooth. It was obvious that the old one had been well-used. Installing the new box can be accomplished by following the above steps in reverse. It went in really easily once I had become familiar with the process of taking it out. It bolted right up to the frame and away I went. Make sure you follow the directions provided from Flaming River by ensuring the shaft is centered before you install the pitman arm--they marked the gear and steering box with a yellow paint pen too.