Sunday, May 22, 2011

Sanding the Body


I started off the day by rolling both of the rear quarter panels to help accommodate the wider rear differential. I simply used my hand and a heavy hammer to get the job done. I made multiple passes in order to work the lip a little bit at a time. I think they turned out pretty good considering I have never rolled a fender before and I was only using a hammer. I still need to make a few more adjustments before all is said and done, but for now I think they look much better and my tires (once I buy them) will appreciate the rolling.

Rear Passenger Quarter Panel with Rolled Lip

The rest of the day was spent sanding the panels on the car in order to find out which areas are in need of body work and which are not. By the time I was done sanding with a belt sander, I found that every panel needs some sort of body work; The trunk, both quarter panels, both doors, both fenders and yes, even the roof. The roof looks like someone beat it with a baseball bat. In the picture below, the dark spots on the roof are low spots compared to the rest of the roof. On the driver's side I counted six and I didn't even bother to count the passenger's side.

Driver's Side Roof

The driver's side door appears to have been hit (even if only slightly) as evidenced by the door handle panel not sitting flush with the quarter panel. Using a body hammer, I straightened out the edge of the door so that it now sits flush with the quarter panel. The area around the door handle will still need a little more body work and eventually a flush coat of Bondo.

Driver's Side Door

I was hoping for a body that didn't require much work, but it looks like it is going to take quite a few hours to get this car up to par before primer and paint ensue. I want to make sure the car is right before I paint it so no matter how long it takes, we'll get it done.

Friday, May 13, 2011

Correct Rim Size (Backspacing/Offset)



Description showing Negative Offset

Offset and backspace are two words that essentially describe the same concept although they describe different aspects of that concept. Think of it like this: when offset increases (0 to +12.7 for example) backspace increases (4.0" to 4.5") and when offset decreases (0 to -12.7 for example) backspace also decreases (4.0" to 3.5".) The two are directly related; more specifically they share a direct correlation.

Offset  describes the distance (often measured in millimeters) the mounting point is away from the "centerline" of the rim (the exact middle of the rim.) Offset can either be positive (+) or negative (-); positive meaning further from the back edge of the rim and negative meaning closer to the back edge of the rim. Backspace is the amount of space (usually measured in inches) between the location the rim mounts to the car and the back edge of the rim. Backspace can never be negative.

Measurements for rims aren't entirely accurate for the purpose of calculating offset and backspace. An additional 1" needs to be added to the width of the rim to derive a correct calculation. For example, a 15x8 rim is really 9" wide from outer edge to outer edge. Once the actual tire is mounted, the overall width will likely be even wider (after adding in the bulge of the tire over the rim.) Once you've taken the factory rim size (8" for this example) and added 1" (8+1=9), divide the number by 2 in order to find the cenerline of the wheel; 9/2= 4.5. If the offset for your car is 0 (center of the rim) then the backspace is 4.5. If the offset is +25.4 (or 1") then backspace is 4.5" + 1" or 5.5". Inversely, if the offset is -25.4, then your backspace is 4.5"-1" or 3.5".

In order to figure out offset, you'll first need to know what the measurement for backspace is by using a straightedge and a ruler. Lay the straight edge across the back of the rim (without a tire mounted) and using a ruler or tape measure, measure the distance from where the rim mounts to the brake drum or caliper to the bottom edge of the ruler. This distance is the backspace. Next you'll take the measurement from the previous calculation for the center of the rim and subtract it from the backspace you just measured. If the number is negative, you have what are commonly referred to as "deep dish" rims.  In the case of a 15x8 rim for a 1965-70 Mustang, this measurement should be 4.5". Since 4.5 is exactly half of the overall 9" of the rim, offset is 0 meaning that the mounting point sits in the exact middle of the rim (middle option in the picture below.)

Positive, Zero and Negative Offset

In the case of my 1966 Mustang, I have a rear differential from a later model mustang which means that it is an extra 2" wider than the stock 65-66 differential. This causes the axles to sit out 1" further on each side of the car. I cannot use stock rims because the backspace= 4.5" and with the added 1" in the differential, I need rims with backspace of 5.5". Adding an inch to the backspace will push the offset out towards the fender making it 1" or +25.4mm. Finding 15x8 rims with those measurements hasn't been easy.


I would really like to use Torq Thrust II rims on the car, but I need to see if they manufacture them. I found a website that shows them in 15x8 with 5.25" backspace so I need to measure the space in the rear wheel well to see if that will work.

Torq Thrust II Rim


I set a straight edge from the edge of the fender to the ground in order to see how much room I had before the tires were actually sticking out of wheel well. I do realize that there is a "lip" that takes up about 1" of the inside of the wheel well, but I will be tucking the lip under the fender for added room.

Space between Brake Drum and Quarter Edge

The space between the face of the brake drum and the outside edge of the quarter panel is 4.5" which is cutting things very close with the rims I will be putting on. The distance between the face of the brake drum and the outer edge of the quarter panel on a stock 1965-66 mustang is 5.5". The rims I will likely purchase have an extra 0.75" of backspace (increasing stock backspace from 4.5" to 5.25".) The total rim width of an 8" rim is 9" so when subtracting the backspace of 5.25" from 9", the amount of rim that extends past the face of the drum is 3.75" (well within the 4.5".) However another factor to take into account is the distance the actual tire sits beyond the rim. When measuring my brothers 235 60R14 tires using the straight edge, the tire bubbled 0.75" beyond the rim. Now the total amount of rim and tire that sits past the face of the brake drum is 4.5". Like I said, its cutting it close, but I don't have much of an option with rims and its only cutting it close. The part of the tire that is closest to the quarter panel (the top) is shaped much like a parenthesis; it starts small at the top, balloons out and then tapers back down to the size of the rim.




I called my buddy who works for a national tire chain and he said that the Torq Thrust II rims in 15x8 with 5.25" backspace have to be custom made from two pieces and run $230 with his discount. The two front rims in 15x6 with 3.5" backspace he can get for $150 each. With tax I'm looking at spending around $860 on rims alone. It's time to start saving again.

UPDATE 07/16/11: I bought Torq Thrust 2.1 rims from wheelsforless.com since they were on sale from $224 down to $190 each and I paid no shipping or sales tax! In total I paid $769.91 for four 17x8 rims. The backspacing on the rear rims are 5.48" (close enough the the 5.5" needed) and the fronts are 4.81" (most go 4.75"-5.00" with 17" rims.) They should arrive sometime in the next few weeks at which time I'll see if my friend Shawn can hook me up with some tires. The difference between Torq Thrust II's and 2.1's is that the 2.1's are one piece rims while the others are two piece rims. They look nearly identical to each other.
Torq Thrust 2.1 Rim

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Grounded


I wasn't really in the mood to work on the car today so I did some small things that needed to get done. The dash need to have a good ground from the block in order for the gauges and other electronics inside the car to work well. I decided to run the ground wire off of the main ground post that I had created a few weeks ago instead of running a new ground off of the block. The rest of the grounds on the other side of the fender apron include the alternator, fan relay and motor. I still need to buy new front shocks...I know.

Ground Running to the Dash/Trunk

The wire goes in through the firewall and then runs along the bottom of the dash where I ran a bolt, washer and nut that the ground wire connects to. With a well grounded dash, I shouldn't have any problems with decently working gauges. The ground from the dash then runs under the scuff plate and into the trunk which will also be used to ensure a better ground for the brake/reverse lights.

Engine-to-Dash Ground

I also took the time to use the loom wrap to clean up the wires around the starter solenoid as well as the wires running to the starter. I painted the oil pressure extension which allows the pressure sending unit to mount further away from the block (otherwise it wouldn't have fit.)

Oil Pressure Sending Unit
I also mounted the hood latch since I'll be mounting the hinges, hood and fenders in the near future to begin body work and painting. I'll need to line up the hood and then adjust the location of the hood latch to ensure it closes tightly.

1966 Mustang hood latch


Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Speedometer Gears for a T5 Conversion


When swapping a T5 transmission out of a fox body Mustang into an early Mustang (65-66 in my situation), the speedometer drive gear will likely need to be replaced in order to maintain an accurate speed displayed on the dash speedometer. After much searching, I found a web page that actually listed the calculation:

Speedometer Gear Ratio = ((rear axle ratio)*63360) / ((Distance car travels with one tire revolution)*1000)

The number "63360" refers to the number of inches in a mile. The distance the car travels with one tire revolution should probably be in inches. Using the ratio you derive from the calculation, use the below chart to determine which gear you need. The first number is the number of teeth on the driven gear while the second number is the number of teeth on the drive gear inside the transmission.




Gear Combination (Driven #/Drive #)




Ratio
16/8             2.0000
17/8         2.125
18/8         2.25
16/7         2.2857
19/8         2.375
17/7         2.4286
20/8         2.5
18/7         2.5714
21/8         2.625
16/6         2.6667
19/7         2.7143
17/6         2.8333
20/7         2.8571
18/6 or 21/7         3.0000
19/6         3.1667
20/6         3.3333
21/6          3.5

The drive gear inside the transmission will be one of two depending on the production year of the T5.

1983-1989= 7 tooth (Yellow- E3ZZ-17285-A)
1990-1995= 8 tooth (Green-   F0ZZ-17285-A)

Manual T5  Automatic 
Teeth  Part Number  Color  Teeth  Part Number  Color 
  16  C0DZ-17271-A  Wine    16  D0AZ-17271-A  Blue 
  17  C3DZ-17271-C  White    17  C7SZ-17271-A  Green 
  18  C0DD-17271-B  Yellow    18  C7SZ-17271-B  Gray 
19  C0DZ-17271-B  Pink  19  C7VY-17271-A  Tan 
20  C1DZ-17271-A  Black  20  C8SZ-17271-B  Orange 
21  C4OZ-17271-A  Red  21  D0OZ-17271-B  Purple 
23  DFM-17271-A  White 


Another web page I found (FFcars.com) listed a calculator in one of the posts for easier calculation. The link is HERE. The bottom line is that in order to figure out how many teeth should be on the driven gear, you need to know the number of teeth used on the drive gear (7 or 8), the rear gear ration (i.e. 3:55), and the height of the tire or the distance it travels in one revolution. The calculation on this web page is as follows:


driven gear teeth = (drive gear teeth * axle ratio * (63360/(3.14*D))/1000

Gear Calculator on Moldy Rabbit

Of course the Moldy Rabbit website should only be used for cars that are retaining the C4 automatic transmission and have simply swapped their rear gears. I didn't realize that and purchased the purple 21 tooth speed gear (DO0Z-17271-A) instead of the red speedo gear for the T5 (C4OZ-17271-A). All's well that ends well. The gear cost me less than $10 with shipping and I simply purchased the correct one new from Ebay for less than $10 as well.


I'll be running 17x8" Torq Thrust 2.1's with 245/45/17 rims on the rear. You can see the entry where I test fitted the rims HERE.


Monday, May 2, 2011

Rear Air Shocks Installed

I worked from 5-11am this morning to give me time to make it up the mountains to have Lauren's dad remove the 15 stitches in my chin that he sewed in last Saturday. On my way back home I decided to stop by my parents house and install the rear shocks that I purchased over a week ago.

Rear Monroe Adjustable Air Shocks

My first Mustang also had rear adjustable air shocks which proved useful if I knew I was going to have a bunch of people in the back of my car to go somewhere and I wanted to make sure the rear of my car wasn't going to sag. I decided to put in Monroe Adjustable shocks that I purchased from Kragen/O'Riley. With tax they ran about $81 for both including the mounting kits. I ran the air lines through a hole found on the underside of the car and then ran them through the opening to remove the shocks. Using Electrical tape I taped together the air lines to keep them together and to help protect them from damage. The air adjustment fitting is mounted on the driver's side of the car on the trunk hinge. 


UPDATE 09-20-2011

I pulled the air shocks and instead installed a set of KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. You can read about it HERE.